The generator's 10/4 220-V feed line will be connected to those last three breakers (just opposite to the ones connected to the main panel) and routed to where the generator outlet will be on the exterior wall of the house, next to the generator. This way, when three from one side are turned OFF, the three from the other side are ON. Those breakers are stacked side by side and mechanically connected together and also to three more breakers exactly opposite (altogether forming a six-pack), so if switched one way or the other, all six breakers switch at once. With this done, the ground wire must be connected to its busbar, and another ground wire must connect the two panels together. Those same wires now need to be connected in the transfer switch panel, connecting each of the Black, Red, and White (neutral) wires to three different breakers, each one identifying the wire color assigned to it. Now attach the red and black wires from the 10/4 cable to this 30 amps breaker. Connect the white and green wires to the appropriate buses in the main panel. Strip the sheathing from 10/4 cable and feed it through the conduit between the two boxes. Insert a 30 Amps 220 Volts circuit breaker in one of the newly created spots in the main panel. You can then remove the black and red wires from each of the breakers feeding the selected circuits and the corresponding neutral and ground wires from their busbars, and pull them out from the main panel, then transfer them over into the new transfer switch panel. Safety Note: Turn OFF the main breaker of the main panel to avoid serious risk of electrical injury. The goal is to attach those specific circuits to new circuit breakers inside the new panel so that if there is a power outage, the main breaker in the new panel can be switched over so that all three lines from the main panel are cut off and isolated from those selected circuits which are then connected and supplied directly from the generator output. Select ahead specific circuits that will be needed during an outage such as lighting, water pump, and appliances. Now attach the grounding bus to the wall of the new panel. Use heavy screws to anchor the new box to the wall next to your main circuit panel. Attach the new box the same way at the other end of the nipple. Remove it and put in a threaded nipple securing it with the proper nuts. You’ll see a large knockout on the side of the box. Remember that the main disconnect at the top will still be hot so avoid approaching it. Shut off power to the main breaker panel and remove the cover to expose the insides. How much do you really need to run during a power outage? Look at the wattage of your appliances and buy a generator that allows for a comfortable margin above this to accommodate potential spikes in energy consumption. I admit it.Before installing a portable generator transfer switch you need to know what size generator to buy. (And please don't pay too much attention to my sarcasm. And, seriously, good luck with your project. While I don't see any problem placing a transfer switch under the panel per se, you may have a problem fitting the conduit from the side of the switch to the bottom of your panel and still have enough wire to reach the bars and terminals. If I've got the right picture of this transfer switch in my mind's eye, it attaches to the main panel via a short (18"?)nipple of flexible conduit containing in-and-out whips (short wire lengths) for all of the switchable circuits. GULP! This is one of those "pre-wired" multi-circuit transfer switches that requires you to do as much wiring as wiring a much cheaper transfer panel from scratch, right? I have seen transfer switches that required a ladder to throw and some 12" off the floor.Īnd THANK YOU for your decision to use a transfer switch, and not some cobbled together cord, wire or circuit breaker trick. Speaking of inspections, are you going to have one?- if not you can probably put it where ever you want to. You say everything is "crowded together"- so working clearance could be an issue, too. Will your new transfer switch become the service disconnect? If so, it should be "readily accessable" and if it ends up so low that you almost stand on your head some inspectors might not pass it. Be aware that there is often a requirement that equipment be installed "in accordance with manufacturer instructions" which if strictly interpreted (not likely) in your case means the switch must go ".18" on either side of the load center.". A picture of the area and specifics about your switch would help. There are many different models of transfer switch, and several ways said switch could be installed. You haven't supplied enough information for a definite answer.
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